Mellerio dits Meller stands as one of the most extraordinary sagas in luxury craftsmanship. Rooted in history, driven by creativity, and anchored in family legacy, this French jewelry house has been run by the same family for over 400 years. Founded in 1613, with records of the family in Paris dating back to 1515, it remains France’s last independent, family-owned historic jewelry maison. Today, it is led by Ms. Laure-Isabelle Mellerio, the 14th generation(Lineal Lineage).
The Beginnings (1515–1815)
The Mellerio journey began in 1515, when the family migrated from Craveggia, a small Alpine village in Val Vigezzo near the Italian border, to Paris after the Italian Wars. They initially worked as chimney sweepers and hawkers while maintaining ties with their homeland.
In 1613, Queen Marie de Médicis granted the Mellerios and other Lombard families a Royal Privilege, allowing them to freely sell jewelry and luxury goods in France. Legend holds this honor was a reward for revealing a plot to assassinate the young King Louis XIII.
This decree marked the official start of Mellerio’s jewelry business and a lasting relationship with European royalty.
In 1784, 12-year-old François Mellerio arrived in Paris, later joining the republican army and apprenticing with Milanese jeweler Manini. He returned in 1801, opened a small workshop, and quickly gained favor with Empress Josephine.
The Rise of a Jewelry Empire (1815–1915)
In 1815, François and his brother Jean-Jacques opened a boutique at 22 rue de la Paix (Paris)—becoming the first jewelers on the now-iconic street, long before Cartier’s arrival.
After the 1830 accession of Louis Philippe I, Mellerio was appointed official jeweler to the French royal family. Their clientele soon expanded to royal courts across Spain, Italy, the Netherlands, Brazil, and more.
During the 1848 Revolution, François’ sons, Jean-François and Jean-Antoine, temporarily relocated to Spain. There, Queen Isabella II purchased their entire stock, and by 1860, they were named official jewelers to the Spanish Crown.
At the 1867 Paris Universal Exhibition, Mellerio won a Gold Medal for creations like a platinum rococo tiara and a flexible peacock feather motif—later acquired by Queen Isabel II. That same year, they became official jewelers to the King of Italy, creating pieces for royal weddings, including a laurel branch and wild pink tiara.
In 1905, they introduced Art Nouveau designs using guilloché enamel to evoke peacock feathers. One piece was acquired by the Maharajah of Kapurthala.
Mellerio’s blend of innovation and artisan tradition cemented its global reputation during this era.
Necklaces
Resilience and Reinvention (1915–2015)
Despite world wars and shifting markets, Mellerio endured. In 1915, Raphaël Mellerio passed the business to his sons Charles, Bernard, and Maurice, establishing a governance model among three family branches.
A major upheaval occurred in 1967 with the sudden death of Emile Mellerio. His son François, then just 25, assumed leadership, later joined by his brother Olivier and cousin Jean-Claude. Together, they navigated a challenging era of market consolidation and changing luxury tastes.
In 1993, Olivier Mellerio launched the Maison’s first watch collection under “Laurivier,” later folded into Mellerio International. Their patented “Neuf” watch won the Cadran d’Or in 1998. In 2005, they unveiled the exclusive “Mellerio Cut,” a unique gemstone shape.
Governance reforms in 2006 introduced a dual structure: a family holding entity and an operational arm, Mellerio International. In 2010, they formalized governance with a family and business charter.
During this period, Mellerio continued producing iconic commissions, including prestigious trophies like the Roland-Garros Coupe des Mousquetaires (1981) (awarded to the winner of the men's singles in French Tennis )and the Ballon d'Or (highly prestigious individual award in football).
Their 400th anniversary in 2013 was marked by a Haute-Joaillerie collection inspired by the lily, featuring the “Medici” collar—crafted over 4,500 hours.
Peacock feathers
The Modern Era and Creative Revival (2015–Present)
Today, Mellerio is helmed by Laure-Isabelle Mellerio, an HEC graduate, gemologist, art historian, and interior designer. As president and artistic director, she brings contemporary flair while preserving timeless elegance.
Her design approach plays with contrasts—color, volume, and material—infused with her Italian heritage. The result: effortlessly chic pieces that resonate with modern audiences.
Under her leadership, Mellerio remains the last independent, family-owned high jewelry house in France. The Maison continues crafting bespoke masterpieces, drawing on its centuries-old archives.
It is a proud member of prestigious institutions like the Comité Colbert (French association "to promote the concept of luxury), the Henokiens Association, and the Family Business Network, and it holds the French Living Heritage Company label.
Colorful Rings
The 15th Generation: Côme Mellerio and the Future of Haute Joaillerie
In 2018, at just 26, Mr. Côme Mellerio became CEO following the sudden passing of his father. Raised in a heritage-rich environment under his mother Laure-Isabelle’s artistic influence, Côme brings a fresh blend of tradition and innovation.
With a business background and early career at Ernst & Young, he once considered a path outside the family firm—but the deep-rooted legacy drew him back.
As CEO, his focus includes:
Côme and Laure-Isabelle collaborate closely, modernizing historical designs for today’s clientele. He also champions sustainability, such as upcycling heirloom stones, and is expanding bespoke services globally.
MELLERIO dits MELLER is more than a jewellery house—it is a living narrative of European heritage, creative excellence, and multi-generational resilience. Its sustained relevance over four centuries stems not only from exquisite craftsmanship, but also from visionary governance, adaptability, and a deep-rooted sense of family responsibility.
Source: Les Hénokiens, Case_study_Mellerio.pdf
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